In short
- EU cosmetics list their ingredients under INCI names, the same in every language, from the largest amount to the smallest.
- A few ingredients are worth knowing: two parabens, two UV filters, triclosan, PFAS, and the phthalates that can hide in 'parfum'.
- EU rules already ban or limit most of them. Allowed doesn't always mean ideal during pregnancy or for a baby.
- Start with leave-on products. Creams, lotions, make-up and sunscreen stay on your skin for hours.
How to read an ingredient list
In the EU, every cosmetic lists its ingredients under their INCI names, short for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. They're the same in every country: that's why a French moisturiser and an Estonian one both say "Aqua" for water.
Ingredients appear from the largest amount to the smallest, down to 1%. Below 1%, they can come in any order. A fragrance blend appears as a single word, "Parfum", and colourants as "CI" followed by a number.
At a glance
| On the label | What it does | What EU rules say |
|---|---|---|
| Propylparaben, Butylparaben | Preservative | Capped at 0.14% together. Banned in leave-on products for the nappy area of children under three |
| Benzophenone-3 | UV filter | Lower limits since 2022. "Contains Benzophenone-3" on the label above 0.5% |
| Homosalate | UV filter | Since 2022, allowed only in face products, in a lower amount |
| Triclosan | Antibacterial | Allowed only in a few products, such as toothpaste and hand soap, up to 0.3% |
| Parfum | Fragrance | Its ingredients don't have to be listed, apart from common allergens |
| Names with "fluoro" | PFAS: water resistance, long wear | Banned in cosmetics in France since 2026 |
The ingredients worth knowing
Propylparaben and butylparaben
Parabens are preservatives: they stop bacteria and mould growing in a cream once it's open. In laboratory studies, propylparaben and butylparaben act weakly like oestrogen. EU rules cap them at 0.14% combined, and ban them in leave-on products made for the nappy area of children under three. Five other parabens have been banned since 2014.
Methylparaben and ethylparaben, the shorter parabens, are considered safe at the levels allowed.
Benzophenone-3 and homosalate
These are UV filters, found in sunscreens and in some day creams and lip balms. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety reviewed them for hormonal effects, and since 2022 both are allowed only in lower amounts; homosalate only in face products. A product with more than 0.5% benzophenone-3 must say "Contains Benzophenone-3" on its label. You may also see it as oxybenzone.
If you'd rather avoid them, mineral filters are an option: Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide on the label. Whatever you choose, keep protecting your skin from the sun.
Triclosan
An antibacterial agent, once common in soaps, toothpastes and deodorants, studied for effects on thyroid hormones in animals. EU rules now allow it only in a few products, such as toothpaste, hand soap, shower gel and some deodorants, up to 0.3%, and 0.2% in mouthwash. It has become rare.
Phthalates in fragrance
The phthalates most studied as endocrine disruptors, like DBP and DEHP, are banned from cosmetics in the EU. Diethyl phthalate is still allowed and is used to make fragrance last. Because a fragrance appears only as "Parfum", you can't tell from the label whether it contains it. Choosing fragrance-free products that stay on your skin is the simplest way around it.
PFAS
PFAS, the "forever chemicals", make make-up water-resistant and long-wearing: some foundations, mascaras and lipsticks contain them. They break down extremely slowly, build up in the body, and some are linked to effects on hormones, the thyroid included. Look for names containing "fluoro", such as PTFE, Perfluorodecalin or Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether. France has banned PFAS in cosmetics since 1 January 2026.
What "allowed" means
EU limits are set from assessments by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, for the general population. An allowed ingredient, used within its limit, is considered safe for most people.
If you're pregnant, planning a pregnancy, or choosing products for a baby, you may prefer to avoid some of these ingredients even when they're allowed. That's a reasonable precaution, and not a reason to worry about every product you own.
A simple routine for your bathroom
- Start with leave-on products used every day: body lotion, face cream, foundation, deodorant.
- Choose fragrance-free versions of the products that stay on your skin.
- For sunscreen, pick a mineral filter if you'd rather avoid benzophenone-3 and homosalate. Never skip sun protection.
- Replace things as they run out. No need to throw everything away at once.
This is the reading Hooli will do for you: scan the label, and see the ingredients worth knowing pointed out, for your situation.
Sources
- Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, Annexes II, III, V and VI, and CosIng, the European Commission's database of cosmetic ingredients.
- Commission Regulation (EU) No 358/2014 on parabens and triclosan, and No 1004/2014 on propylparaben and butylparaben.
- Commission Regulation (EU) 2022/1176 on benzophenone-3, and Regulation (EU) 2022/2195 on homosalate.
- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, opinions on benzophenone-3 (2021), homosalate (2021) and propylparaben (2021).
- French law no. 2025-188 of 27 February 2025 on protecting the population from PFAS.
Hooli provides information, not medical advice. It does not replace diagnosis or treatment by a health professional. Always talk to your doctor before changing a medication.